![]() ![]() I'm wondering, because if it's not, I might rather go out and buy an Optima battery. But, I didn't have a lot of confidence they knew what they were talking about. But I just called the dealer to schedule an appointment to have it looked at before my warranty expires, and the person on the phone said they weren't sure that the battery would be covered, they said batteries usually aren't. ![]() My question is is the 12V battery covered by the car's 36 month warranty? Does anyone know? The warranty book doesn't say anything about an exclusion for the battery. ![]() I have a couple of weeks left on my 36 month new-car warranty on the car (I got my 2010 at the beginning of February 2011). I got the Optima Yellow and am happy with it. My advise is to replace it after 4 years so you won't get stranded. You won't be able to stop the "booting process" or do anything about it until it drain up the battery. (B) If the battery charge state is very low, you'd see the engine light on and hear continuous whining noise. (A) If the battery is totally dead, the car won't start and you won't see any light on the dash board. I returned about an hour later, the whining noise had stopped and the battery was drained completely. Since I had to leave the house, I just let the whining noise continue and locked the door. I pressed the Start button again in order to turn the system off but nothing would happen. The car made a continuous and low whining noise but the system won't boot up. When I pressed on the Start button, the yellow engine light on the dash board came on. I had to use the key to open the door manually. What happened below would probably answer your question.Īfter parking the car outside the driveway overnight, the door couldn't be opened with the key fob. I guessed the battery was close to its end of life and lost its cold cranking power under such severe weather condition. The weather was really cold (down to -30C at night) last week. The battery in question was the original that came with the factory. Keep the 12V one in the car for emergencies.Click to expand.It is such an coincident that I had the exact same problem on the day of your posting. I got this one over the B&D one because it had a serviceable fuse, Inflator Home Inflation System - Campbell Hausfeld - RP410099AV There are air compressors/inflators that plug into an outlet. If you can't leave the car plugged in 24/7, you could get a real charger, and use it occasionally to top off the 12V. While most put out enough juice to counter self discharge and light vampire drains, some might slowly charge a battery a battery below 100%. With less driving with the shut down, people arr having 12V battery issues without even using plug in accessories like a compressor.Ī battery maintainer is a small charger that keeps the battery 100%. The start up fo a hybrid isn't as big a drain as with traditional cars, but it still takes a measurable amount of time running the car to fully charge the 12V after start up without considering the battery already being lower than 100%. All batteries elf-discharge to some extent, and then there are vampire drains while hooked to the car(the SKS system is one). Then the lower the battery gets discharged under that, the shorter its life. Click to expand.For longest life, lead-acid batteries need to be kept at 100% charge. ![]()
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